Showing posts with label to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label to. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
How to Make a Gymnastics Bar The Horizontal Bar
Gymnastic apparatus costs money and needs to be housed, because it will not stand the weather. Gymnasiums are not always available for the average boy who likes exercise and who would like to learn the tricks on horizontal and parallel bars, horse and rings, which all young athletes are taught in regular gymnastic courses.
Any small crowd of boys—even two—having a few simple tools, a will to use them and the small amount of money required to buy the necessary wood, bolts and rope, can make a first class gymnasium. If trees are convenient, and some one can swing an axe, the money outlay will be almost nothing. The following plans are for material purchased from a mill squared and cut to length. To substitute small, straight trees for the squared timbers requires but little changes in the plans.
Adjustable Horizontal Bar
The most important piece of apparatus in the gymnasium is the horizontal bar. Most gymnasiums have two: one adjustable bar for various exercises and a high bar for gymnastic work. The outdoor gymnasium combines the two. The material required is as follows: 2 pieces of wood, 4 in. square by 9-1/2 ft. long; 4 pieces, 2 by 4 in. by 2 ft. long; 4 pieces, 1 by 7 in. by 6-1/2 ft. long; 4 filler pieces, 3/4 by 3 in. by 3 ft. 9 in. long and 1 piece, 2-1/2 in. square by 5 ft. 7 in. long. This latter piece is for the bar and should be of well seasoned, straight-grained hickory. It makes no difference what kind of wood is used for the other pieces, but it is best to use cedar for the heavy pieces that are set in the ground as it will take years for this wood to rot. Ordinary yellow pine will do very well. The four 7-in. boards should be of some hard wood if possible such as oak, hickory, maple, chestnut or ash. The other material necessary consists of 2 bolts, 1/2 in. in diameter and 7 in. long; 16 screws, 3 in. long; 4 heavy screw eyes with two 1/2-in. shanks; 50 ft. of heavy galvanized wire: 80 ft. of 1/4-in. manila rope and 4 pulley blocks. Four cleats are also required but these can be made of wood at home.
Draw a line on the four 7-in. boards along the side of each from end to end, 1-1/4-in. from one edge. Beginning at one end of each board make pencil dots on this line 5 in. apart for a distance of 3 ft. 4 in. Bore holes through the boards on these marks with a 9/15-in. bit. Fasten two of these boards on each post with the 3-in. screws, as shown in the top view of the post Fig. 1, forming a channel of the edges in which the holes were bored. Two of the filler pieces are fastened in each channel as shown, so as to make the space fit the squared end of the bar snugly. The ends of the boards with the holes should be flush with the top of the post. This will make each pair of holes in the 7-in. boards coincide, so the 1/2-in. bolt can be put through them and the squared end of the bar.
Select a level place where the apparatus is to be placed and dig two holes 6 ft. apart, each 3 ft. deep and remove all loose dirt. The ends of the posts not covered with the boards are set in these holes on bricks or small stones. The channels formed by the boards must be set facing each other with the inner surfaces of the posts parallel and 5 ft. 8 in. apart. The holes around the posts are filled with earth and well tamped.
The hickory piece which is to form the bar should be planed, scraped and sandpapered until it is perfectly smooth and round except for 3 in. at each end. Bore a 9/16-in. hole through each square end 1-1/4 in. from the end. The bar may be fastened at any desired height by slipping the 1/2-in. bolts through the holes bored in both the bar and channel.
Each post must be well braced to keep it rigid while a person is swinging on the bar. Four anchors are placed in the ground at the corners of an imaginary rectangle 9 by 16 ft., in the center of which the posts stand as shown in Fig. 2. Each anchor is made of one 2-ft. piece of wood, around the center of which four strands of the heavy galvanized wire are twisted, then buried to a depth of 2 ft., the extending ends of the wires coming up to the surface at an angle.
The heavy screw eyes are turned into the posts at the top and lengths of ropes tied to each. These ropes or guys pass through the pulley blocks, which are fastened to the projecting ends of the anchor wire, and return to the posts where they are tied to cleats. Do not tighten the guy ropes without the bar in place, as to do so will strain the posts in the ground. Do not change the elevation of the bar without slacking up on the ropes. It takes but little pull on the guy ropes to make them taut, and once tightened the bar will be rigid.
Ground Plan
Oil the bar when it is finished and remove it during the winter. It is well to oil the wood occasionally during the summer and reverse the bar at times to prevent its becoming curved. The wood parts should be well painted to protect them from the weather.
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
Read more »
Any small crowd of boys—even two—having a few simple tools, a will to use them and the small amount of money required to buy the necessary wood, bolts and rope, can make a first class gymnasium. If trees are convenient, and some one can swing an axe, the money outlay will be almost nothing. The following plans are for material purchased from a mill squared and cut to length. To substitute small, straight trees for the squared timbers requires but little changes in the plans.
Adjustable Horizontal Bar
The most important piece of apparatus in the gymnasium is the horizontal bar. Most gymnasiums have two: one adjustable bar for various exercises and a high bar for gymnastic work. The outdoor gymnasium combines the two. The material required is as follows: 2 pieces of wood, 4 in. square by 9-1/2 ft. long; 4 pieces, 2 by 4 in. by 2 ft. long; 4 pieces, 1 by 7 in. by 6-1/2 ft. long; 4 filler pieces, 3/4 by 3 in. by 3 ft. 9 in. long and 1 piece, 2-1/2 in. square by 5 ft. 7 in. long. This latter piece is for the bar and should be of well seasoned, straight-grained hickory. It makes no difference what kind of wood is used for the other pieces, but it is best to use cedar for the heavy pieces that are set in the ground as it will take years for this wood to rot. Ordinary yellow pine will do very well. The four 7-in. boards should be of some hard wood if possible such as oak, hickory, maple, chestnut or ash. The other material necessary consists of 2 bolts, 1/2 in. in diameter and 7 in. long; 16 screws, 3 in. long; 4 heavy screw eyes with two 1/2-in. shanks; 50 ft. of heavy galvanized wire: 80 ft. of 1/4-in. manila rope and 4 pulley blocks. Four cleats are also required but these can be made of wood at home.
Draw a line on the four 7-in. boards along the side of each from end to end, 1-1/4-in. from one edge. Beginning at one end of each board make pencil dots on this line 5 in. apart for a distance of 3 ft. 4 in. Bore holes through the boards on these marks with a 9/15-in. bit. Fasten two of these boards on each post with the 3-in. screws, as shown in the top view of the post Fig. 1, forming a channel of the edges in which the holes were bored. Two of the filler pieces are fastened in each channel as shown, so as to make the space fit the squared end of the bar snugly. The ends of the boards with the holes should be flush with the top of the post. This will make each pair of holes in the 7-in. boards coincide, so the 1/2-in. bolt can be put through them and the squared end of the bar.
Select a level place where the apparatus is to be placed and dig two holes 6 ft. apart, each 3 ft. deep and remove all loose dirt. The ends of the posts not covered with the boards are set in these holes on bricks or small stones. The channels formed by the boards must be set facing each other with the inner surfaces of the posts parallel and 5 ft. 8 in. apart. The holes around the posts are filled with earth and well tamped.
The hickory piece which is to form the bar should be planed, scraped and sandpapered until it is perfectly smooth and round except for 3 in. at each end. Bore a 9/16-in. hole through each square end 1-1/4 in. from the end. The bar may be fastened at any desired height by slipping the 1/2-in. bolts through the holes bored in both the bar and channel.
Each post must be well braced to keep it rigid while a person is swinging on the bar. Four anchors are placed in the ground at the corners of an imaginary rectangle 9 by 16 ft., in the center of which the posts stand as shown in Fig. 2. Each anchor is made of one 2-ft. piece of wood, around the center of which four strands of the heavy galvanized wire are twisted, then buried to a depth of 2 ft., the extending ends of the wires coming up to the surface at an angle.
The heavy screw eyes are turned into the posts at the top and lengths of ropes tied to each. These ropes or guys pass through the pulley blocks, which are fastened to the projecting ends of the anchor wire, and return to the posts where they are tied to cleats. Do not tighten the guy ropes without the bar in place, as to do so will strain the posts in the ground. Do not change the elevation of the bar without slacking up on the ropes. It takes but little pull on the guy ropes to make them taut, and once tightened the bar will be rigid.
Ground Plan
Oil the bar when it is finished and remove it during the winter. It is well to oil the wood occasionally during the summer and reverse the bar at times to prevent its becoming curved. The wood parts should be well painted to protect them from the weather.
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
How to Make a Telegraph Key and Sounder
The sounder, Fig. 1, is made from an old electric-bell magnet, D, fastened to a wooden base.
The lever, A, can be made of brass and the armature, C, is made of iron.
The pivot, E, is made from a wire nail and is soldered to A. It should be filed to a point at each end so as to move freely in the bearings, B, which are pieces of hard wood.
The spring, H, is fastened at each end by pins, bent as shown, and should not be too strong or the magnet will be unable to move the armature.
SOUNDER
A. brass:
B. wood:
C. soft iron;
DD. coils wound with No. 26 wire:
E. nail soldered on A;
FF. binding posts:
H spring
The stop, K, is a wire nail driven deep enough in the base to leave about 1/8 in. between the armature and the magnet. The binding posts, F, may be taken from old dry batteries and are connected to the two wires from the magnet by wires run in grooves cut in the base.
The base of the key, Fig. 2, is also made of wood and has two wooden bearings, E, which are made to receive a pivot, similar to the one used in the sounder. The lever of the key is made of brass and has a hardwood knob, A, fastened near the end. A switch, D, connects with the pivot at F and can be either made from sheet brass, or taken from a small one-point switch. The binding posts are like those of the sounder, and are connected to the contacts, K, by wires run in grooves cut in the wood.
KEY
A. wood;
B. brass or iron soldered to nail;
C. brass;
D. brass:
E. wood:
F. connection of D to nail;
HH. binding posts
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
Read more »
The lever, A, can be made of brass and the armature, C, is made of iron.
The pivot, E, is made from a wire nail and is soldered to A. It should be filed to a point at each end so as to move freely in the bearings, B, which are pieces of hard wood.
The spring, H, is fastened at each end by pins, bent as shown, and should not be too strong or the magnet will be unable to move the armature.
SOUNDER
A. brass:
B. wood:
C. soft iron;
DD. coils wound with No. 26 wire:
E. nail soldered on A;
FF. binding posts:
H spring
The stop, K, is a wire nail driven deep enough in the base to leave about 1/8 in. between the armature and the magnet. The binding posts, F, may be taken from old dry batteries and are connected to the two wires from the magnet by wires run in grooves cut in the base.
The base of the key, Fig. 2, is also made of wood and has two wooden bearings, E, which are made to receive a pivot, similar to the one used in the sounder. The lever of the key is made of brass and has a hardwood knob, A, fastened near the end. A switch, D, connects with the pivot at F and can be either made from sheet brass, or taken from a small one-point switch. The binding posts are like those of the sounder, and are connected to the contacts, K, by wires run in grooves cut in the wood.
KEY
A. wood;
B. brass or iron soldered to nail;
C. brass;
D. brass:
E. wood:
F. connection of D to nail;
HH. binding posts
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
Tuesday, March 10, 2015
Skincare Best Practices How to Get the Most Out of Your Serums Moisturizers and Creams
How to apply serum
Its very important never to apply too much of a product as your skin can only absorb so much. When you layer too much on your skin, the product will sit on the surface rather than absorb. Its very easy to over-apply serums because they tend to be light and packed with actives. Generally three drops smoothed over your entire face and neck is enough.
How to apply moisturizer
If your skin feels sticky, youve applied too much. A peanut size is usually all you need.
How to apply eye cream
A pea-sized amount is enough for both eyes and it should be applied every morning and night after your moisturizer. The skin around the eye is very sensitive so use your ring finger, considered the weakest, to lightly dab in a circular motion the cream under the eye to the cheekbone, at the outer corners and underneath the brows. Youll also want to apply some onto your eyelids to help create a smooth foundation for eye makeup.
How to apply sunscreen
You need about a tablespoon of sunscreen for your face and about two ounces for your body. If you opt for chemical sunscreen, make sure you apply it at least 20 to 30 minutes before going out in the sun. Also remember that you need to be wearing it 365 days a year and when in the sun re-apply it every 90 minutes.
What order to apply your skincare products
Day: Cleanse, exfoliate, tone and then apply your sunscreen before applying any moisturizer/treatment products if youre using a chemical sunscreen as it takes 20 to 30 minutes for chemical sunscreen to bind with your skin and become activated; if you apply your moisturizer/treatment product first, this will interfere with that process. If, however, youre using a physical sunscreen, apply sunscreen last as physical sunscreens work like physical shields on the skins surface to prevent absorption of the damaging rays.
Night: Cleanse, exfoliate, tone and then apply any moisturizer/treatment products. Toning is often skipped, but its crucial as it helps dampen skin allowing your moisturizer/treatment products to absorb more readily.
When to apply your skincare products
Studies have shown that skin repairs itself most effectively between 10 and 11 p.m. so ideally you should be applying your night creams before this time. This also ties into the importance of sleep. When we sleep, our bodies repair and renew themselves and that includes on a cellular level in our skin. Youll also want to save your high-powered anti-aging products and retinoids for your nighttime routine since they tend to weaken in the sun.
Monday, March 9, 2015
7 HOW TO FIGHT HATE EATING VEGETABLES
In order intake remains balanced diet, vegetable food is very important to have in your daily menu. But, what happens if it is an important substance tersebt not included in the list of your favorite dishes?
Here are some tips that can be tried to overcome it.
1. Add vegetables to your favorite dishes
Do you love lasagna? Add chopped spinach boiled and stir fried with broccoli or carrots. If you like macaroni and cheese, stir-fry some vegetables such as asparagus, broccoli, mushrooms, and tomatoes with olive oil. Add a dash of oregano or tomato sauce and macaroni and cheese is ready to eat. Enjoy with hearty omelette dish.
2. Insert vegetables in salad
Put all the vegetables that you like in a salad bowl. There are many vegetables that can be used as a delicious salad dishes, including onions, radishes, shredded carrots, cucumbers, cauliflower, and so on. The best way to serve it is with thin slices so that seep into the herbs and easy to enjoy.
3. Combine with other vegetables
Some vegetables can be combined with other vegetables to give a different flavor. So, add the vegetables with tomatoes or other vegetables and add the sauce on top of it so it was evocative.
4. Eating raw vegetables
Raw vegetables taste lighter and more crispy texture. Serve with onion sauce (use a garlic broth and add cream low-fat) or tomato sauce given oregano, salt, pepper and olive oil.
5. Make your evening snack
Enter vegetables in sandwich you make. Add grated cheese and chopped vegetables such as basil, cabbage and tomatoes.
6. Make vegetable juice
If you are reluctant to mix their own juice, just buy canned juice available in supermarkets. Or if you have time, make carrot juice mixed with mango or orange.
7. Make grilled vegetables
Roast some vegetables and add a pinch of your favorite flavor with a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Be sure to add olive oil before grilling. Then give pieces of mushrooms or eggplant and roast until cooked.
Well, that was tips or tricks how to overcome hate eating vegetables. Hopefully a lot of useful.
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